There will be many journalists, designers, bloggers and stylists turning up for the opening of Anthropologie in Kings Road this month. It has been suggested that the addition of this Global chain to Kings Road shall somehow help regain its cool status.
I am bemused that having lost its edge with the arrival of so many British chain stores, how anyone could think that the arrival of an American giant could help matters.
Sorry if I’m missing something, but if we want to preserve our high streets heritage and character, especially a reputation such as the Kings Road’s to which tourists flock for a taste of London, should we not be aiming for it to at least appear British?
I am lucky enough to own a shop off Kings Road in a tiny unspoiled area called Chelsea Green, which is full of little independent shops frequented by appreciative customers. However, I have a few friends that much like myself, are without investors who dedicate every bit of passion and energy to their shops.
The difference is that they are situated on the Kings Road and are surrounded by chain stores that can afford increasing rents and have huge clout to lure customers. Any extra footfall to the area will be of little benefit when this retailer opens its new 8,000 sq ft premises, as it has left few gaps in the market. It emerges that not even the little eateries are safe as there is also going to be a cafe within the store.
Global or not, chain stores are wiping out our high street’s identity. It’s all too easy to say that British independents are not doing enough and this is the reason for their decline. Mary Portas went to great lengths (whilst raising her profile) to create two TV series pointing out where the indies were going wrong.
I am first to admit that there are neglected, poorly run independent shops, but with little funds and department stores opening alongside, these shops are easy targets. Talk about kicking a dog when it’s down besides, have you been into Debenhams lately?
Did Ms Portas and her Grazia buddies have her indie neighbours interest at heart when they rucked up at Westfields after her third TV series on charity shops? It can’t have helped takings having Mary and her celebrity mates next door flogging their discarded designer numbers at a fraction of the price.
With charity shops being the only retail sector that has grown steadily throughout the recession, may I suggest this was more about her needs than theirs and that her interest in the future of independents lasted about as long as her series.
Naturally, there is a degree of nostalgia when looking back at one’s youth, but I can’t see the current teenagers remembering Kings road with such affection as the teddies of the ‘50s, hippies of the ‘60s or punks of the ‘70s. I arrived in London in the early ‘80s in order for me to further my dance training. Very quickly the lure of the King’s Road proved to be far more appealing than the barre.
I ended up spending most of my time hanging out at the Great Gear Market, which was a huge indoor market halfway up the street similar to Kensington Market. Inside were stalls run by independent clothing and jewellery designers and in the back section, you could sit on high stools drinking coffee while the DJ Rusty Egan stood spinning records.
I would sit all day, totally at home in the tatty surroundings fascinated by the colourful characters surrounding me. There was always an eclectic bunch of musicians, punks, new romantics, designers and artists talking about where they’d been the night before. Whether those around were completely disinterested in an out of town teenager or being sensitive to me feeling out of my depth, I was more than happy to sit there invisible and observe.
This was my favourite haunt, but Boy further up the street catered for the punks and Liberated Lady at the far end for edgy girls and transvestites. Point being, there was something for everyone. Kings road was our stomping ground. The same people that owned the shops, ran the clubs, pubs or hung out. It did not belong to greedy landlords and retail chains trying to cash in on its cachet.
The over hyped Anthropologie owned by Urban Outfitters Inc. belong to Richard Hayne and partner. In 1992 they set out to appeal to 30-40 somethings with a family income of over $200,000. At the last count there were 130 outlets in America and the word is that they plan to roll out a further 30-40 stores over Europe within in the next couple of years.
Thirty-four antique dealers were evicted from Antiquarious to make way for them, but fear not, with clothing, household, textiles and accessories not being sufficient Anthropologie also have the antiques market cornered. Their team of buyers, scour the flea markets of the world shipping back goods to fill their stores so that you can buy over priced treasures. On the clothes front, they are renowned for borrowing heavily from designers to produce their own labels.
There is no doubt that consumers tastes have changed over recent years and whether it’s online, or high street, money is the incentive and it is the masses that are being catered for. So long as we are prepared to see the same coffee shops, department stores and restaurants in every major city in Britain and ultimately, the world then fine.
I have every confidence that once the novelty wears off, as with The Gap and Banana Republic, British customers shall tire of Anthropologie and others and see them for what they really are.
Let’s hope that when they long for the charm of the small, quirky store with a familiar face wanting a friendly chat there are still indies around, for sadly they cannot exist on passion alone.
Image via ThinkRetail's Flickr